AHA vs. BHA - LHA - PHA - Chemical peels ➡️ Which is the right for ME?
- thatsglow
- Nov 30, 2021
- 4 min read
Updated: Apr 8, 2024
Acids are a real trend in skin care. We hear about the most diverse forms such as AHA, BHA, LHA or PHA. But what can they do? Where do they differ and which acid is right one for me?
Especially when you`re struggling with pale skin, pimples, blackheads, enlarged pores or want to reduce small wrinkles, acids can be a real game changer.
Content
When do I use acid in skin care?
What are the effects of chemical peels?
They remove dead skin cells, refine the complexion, effectively cleanse pores and remove blackheads.
In particular fruit acid stimulates the skin to produce new cells, the skin is moisturized better and small wrinkles are reduced.
Depending on the size of the molecule, chemical peels penetrate more or less deeply into the skin. More on this in the section below.
Even better: care products can penetrate the skin better after exfoliating.
What is the concentration of chemical peels?
The concentrations differ depending on the type of acid.
For use at home, for example, glycolic acid (AHA) contains around 2-15 % in cosmetics.
Salicylic acid (BHA) is 1 - 3 %.
With the beautician or dermatologist 30 % glycolic acid is used, sometimes even higher concentrations. I won't go into these special treatments in this post.
How do I use chemical peels?
We can find acids in various products. From cleansing products to creams or serums to masks.
Especially starting with fruit acid, the skin may initially tingle slightly. Don't let this bother you, the skin has to get used to the active ingredient, so start slowly, pay attention to the reaction of your skin and increase it gradually if you want. The tingling sensation will decrease after a while.
When do I use acids for skin care?
Use acid peels in the evening and apply sunscreen the next morning. The skin is very sensitive after using acids, especially if you used fruit acid.
How do the acids differ?
The chemical structure and size of the molecules differ. Therefore they have different effects.
As a general rule, the smaller a molecule is, the deeper it penetrates the skin.
The advantage of larger molecules, on the other hand, is better tolerance.
AHA - fruit acid (Alpha-Hydroxy-Acid)
Fruit acid is the group with the smallest molecules. It penetrates deepest into the skin, is very effective, but at the same time can be irritating to the skin. Let your skin get used to it gradually & be sure to avoid your eyes!
Benefits of fruit acid
In addition to the above-mentioned effects of fighting impurities and removing dead skin cells, fruit acid helps with pigmentation disorders and pimple marks. It also stimulates cell renewal, improves skin moisture and can prevent/minimize wrinkles. This acid in particular is a multi-talent when it comes to anti-aging and the popular glow!
Among others, fruit acids include
Glycolic acid
Smallest molecule - Acts in the deeper layers of the skin, stimulates collagen production, strengthens the elasticity of the skin.
Lactic acid
The molecule is slightly larger than glycolic acid. Lactic acid stimulates ceramide production in particular. The skin barrier is strengthened through improved skin moisture.
Mandelic acid
The mandelic acid molecule is slightly larger than lactic or glycolic acid.
One advantage of mandelic acid is that it naturally inhibits bacteria, which helps with impurities.
BHA - Salicylic Acid (Beta-Hydroxy-Acid)
BHA molecules are larger than those of the group of AHAs. They don`t penetrate deeply into the skin, but they have an excellent superficial effect.
BHA is keratolytic and lipophilic which means it works particularly well on oily skin, cleanses clogged pores and removes blackheads. BHA is also anti-inflammatory.
LHA - (Lipo-Hydroxy-Acid) derivative of salicylic acid - Inci: Capryloyl Salicylic acid
LHA is still relatively new to cosmetics. It is even more lipophilic than BHA and therefore penetrates the top layer of the skin even better. As a larger molecule, LHA is more tolerable than BHA and has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects.
PHA - (Poly-Hydroxy-Acid) - Inci: Gluconolactone
Largest molecule within this comparison. Hydrophilic and very moisturizing. Does not penetrate deep into the skin, but is most tolerable and suitable for sensitive, very dry skin. Anyone who struggles with irritation with the above acids can try this mild variant. PHA also has antioxidant effects.
Often manufacturers offer a combination of acids, like
Dermasence AHA/BHA-Pflegeserie
(➡️Reinigungsmousse) (➡️AHA-Creme)
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Mikropeeling Reinigungsgel or Effaclar Duo+ Creme BHA und LHA
